Gary Usher doesn’t bother boosting his popular new bistros across the northwest. He doesn’t have to…Kala, 55 King Street, Manchester M2 4LQ (0800 160 1811). Starters £5.50-£14, mains £16-£30, desserts £6-£10, three courses at lunch £23, wines from £22Journalists like a story, even those of us paddling in the shallow...